The natural aging of the skin, called senescence, is a cumulative phenomenon of damage to skin cells (genetic mutations and degeneration) and deep layers containing collagen and elastic fibers. This results in a loss of skin elasticity (it regains less and less of its initial shape after stretching), wrinkles and then slackening.
What accelerates aging?
Solar exposures. and/or white spots, dilation of the vessels… It is therefore very important to protect yourself from the sun if you want to limit the aging of the skin.
The tobacco. Tobacco smoke is rich in substances harmful to the skin, causing a gray and dull complexion and increasing the retention of sebum in the skin, which leads to acne. In addition, tobacco tends to thicken and reshape the deep elastic layers of the skin (elastosis).
Hormonal aging, especially in postmenopausal women: the skin of postmenopausal women becomes thinner, due to a lack of hormones.
A diet low in anti-free radicals and essential fatty acids: it is therefore recommended to adopt a Mediterranean-type diet, rich in fruits and vegetables, legumes, starches, fish and to vary the quality of its edible oils (oil rapeseed, grapeseed oil, olive oil).
Solutions to fight skin aging
Anti-wrinkle creams and serums and most anti-aging treatments are generally the first line to fight against the onset of skin aging. These treatments generally have the effect of protecting the skin from the sun (day care products often contain sun filters and antioxidants: vitamins E, C, Carotene, selenium, polyphenols, etc.) and of stimulating the regeneration of the elastic fibers of the skin, in particular by means of exfoliation, according to a simple principle: when we exfoliate the superficial layer of the skin, we stimulate its regeneration in depth.
Anti-wrinkle creams most often contain exfoliating acid substances: fruit acids, AHA or alpha hydroxy acids, glycolic acid, vitamin A derivatives (retinol, retinaldehyde…)… These are the substances that are likely cause skin irritation (sensation of tightness, tingling, even dryness or redness of the skin) on the areas where the anti-wrinkle cream has been applied.
Finally, some anti-wrinkle creams will aim to compensate for certain shortcomings of the skin, for example: the hormonal deficiency of menopause by means of phytoestrogens contained in certain anti-wrinkle creams or the dryness of the skin, a source of aggravation and deepening of wrinkles, using moisturizing active ingredients (hyaluronic acid, etc.)
The dermatologist can offer treatments aimed at reducing the consequences of skin ageing, for example:
photorejuvenation with intense pulsed light, allowing both to fade brown spots, vessels and redness (rosacea, etc.), but also to stimulate fibroblasts and the production of new collagen, which makes the skin more elastic, thicker and smoother (treatment of wrinkles).
peeling, a technique consisting of applying an acidic substance to the skin, resulting in an exfoliation that fades dark spots and wrinkles. It ranges from superficial peeling giving a radiance boost to the complexion to deep peeling fighting against marked wrinkles.
injections of botulinum toxin (Botox ®…) in wrinkles: botulinum toxin is a toxin of bacterial origin causing paralysis of the muscle into which it is injected (forehead muscles for example). This paralysis is temporary (about 6 months) and therefore reduces the appearance of wrinkles, particularly expression lines: frown lines between the eyebrows, forehead wrinkles, crow’s feet wrinkles on the sides of the eyes.
wrinkle filler injections (hyaluronic acid, etc.): products are injected into the deep part of the skin that will lift wrinkles. This effect is temporary (about 6 months).
treatment of wrinkles with abrasive lasers: these lasers can be used to carry out a superficial peeling of the skin with an anti-wrinkle aim (Erbium) up to a rejuvenation of the face, in particular for so-called fractionated lasers, i.e. applied leaving spaces of healthy skin, allowing faster healing.
The opinion of our dermatologist
We can never repeat enough the importance of sun protection, the first factor in the acceleration of aging and of course skin cancer. If anti-wrinkle creams have a moderate effect on proven damage (dark spots, wrinkles, etc.), the care provided by the dermatologist can be remarkably effective. However, their risks are proportional to the intensity of the damage, and therefore to the intensity of the treatments. It is therefore better to seek to give yourself a boost of radiance than to tackle deep wrinkles.